Best Way to Clean Windows: DIY vs Store-Bought, No-Streak Method, Pro Tips

You want a simple, reliable answer: what’s actually the best thing to clean windows with so they’re clear, streak-free, and done fast? Here’s the reality-there isn’t one magic product for every window, every time. But there is a best approach that works in most homes, with easy swaps for tricky glass. I live in Bristol with a very enthusiastic dog (Charlie) whose nose prints on the patio doors could be a crime scene. This is the method that wins at my place and on client jobs, even in our hard-water patch.

TL;DR

• For most windows: warm water + a tiny drop of washing-up liquid, a squeegee, and a good microfiber cloth. Clean in the shade. Dry edges with a second dry microfiber.
• For quick indoor touch-ups: alcohol-based glass spray or a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water-flashes off fast, fewer streaks.
• For limescale spots (common in hard-water areas like the South West): soak with white vinegar for 5-10 minutes, then clean normally.
• Skip paper towels and newspaper. Use lint-free microfiber. Distilled/deionised water helps if you get constant streaks.
• Work top-to-bottom. Don’t clean hot glass or in direct sun. It dries too fast and streaks.

What actually works: DIY vs shop-bought window cleaners

If you came here for one line, the closest thing to a universal answer is this: a bucket of warm water with one small drop of washing-up liquid (think pea-sized per litre), a squeegee, and two clean microfibers. That combo breaks grease, leaves almost no residue, and costs pennies. Professional window cleaners use this approach because it’s fast and repeatable. For speed indoors, alcohol-based sprays are excellent-especially on mirrors and glossy interior glass.

So what is the best window cleaner? It depends on your glass and grime. Here’s how to choose quickly:

• Light dust or fingerprints (living room, bedrooms): water + a microfibre cloth, or a mild dish-soap solution, or an alcohol-based spray.
• Grease (kitchen glass, cooker splash on splashbacks): add alcohol (isopropyl) or use a commercial alcohol-based spray.
• Hard-water spots (tap spray, sprinklers, coastal mists): pre-treat with white vinegar, then finish with your usual method.
• Very dirty exteriors (pollen, road film, bird mess): a soapy bucket, scrubber/sleeve, and a squeegee-quick and thorough.
• Delicate/tinted/filmed glass: avoid ammonia and abrasive pads; stick to mild soap and microfiber.

Independent lab tests (think Good Housekeeping Institute, Which?, and trade bodies like the International Window Cleaning Association) consistently show three things: microfiber beats paper for lint and clarity; alcohol-based formulas dry quicker with fewer streaks; and the squeegee method is the most foolproof way to finish glass without marks.

DIY mixes that actually work:

• Everyday wash: 1 litre warm water + 1 tiny drop washing-up liquid. More soap ≠ better; it leaves film.
• Quick spray: 50% isopropyl alcohol (70% strength is fine) + 50% water + 1 small drop dish soap per litre if the glass is greasy.
• Vinegar mix for mineral haze: 1:1 white vinegar and water as a pre-treatment, then wash with your normal solution.
• Hard-water area tip: make up solutions with distilled/deionised water. It dries spot-free and helps if your tap water leaves marks.

How the options stack up on cost, speed, and streaks:

Notes on costs: UK 2025 retail ballparks-white vinegar ~£0.50-£1/L; isopropyl ~£8-£12/L but you only use half per litre of spray; deionised water ~£4-£6 for 5L. Prices vary, but the ratios hold.

The no-streak method: tools and step-by-step

Tools that actually help:

• Microfiber cloths (at least two): one for washing/wiping, one dry for edges and final buff. Avoid fabric softener when washing them-it kills their grab.
• Squeegee with a sharp rubber blade (25-35 cm suits most windows). Replace the rubber when it starts leaving faint lines.
• Bucket or spray bottle. If using a bucket, a washer/sleeve (microfiber) makes life easier.
• Soft brush or vacuum crevice tool for frames and tracks.
• Optional: distilled water for mixing, extension pole for exterior first-floor windows, small scraper with a sharp blade for paint specks (used wet, with care).

Conditions matter more than people think. Don’t clean glass that’s hot to the touch or in direct sun-the solution flashes off, drags, and streaks. Pick shade or a cool time of day. Indoors, crack a window for airflow; alcohol sprays can be whiffy for a minute.

Step-by-step (works for 95% of homes):

1. Dust first: Use a dry microfiber or soft brush to remove loose dust, cobwebs, and grit from frames and sills. Grit is what scratches glass-not your cloth.
2. Mix your solution: For a bucket, warm water with a tiny drop of washing-up liquid. For a spray, use 50/50 isopropyl and water if you want a streak-free quick finish.
3. Wash the glass: Load your washer/sleeve or lightly spray the pane. Work edges and corners. You’re trying to float off dirt, not polish it around.
4. Squeegee top to bottom: Start with a dry strip across the top (called a ‘cut in’) so your first pass doesn’t leave a top drip. Then pull down in straight lines, overlapping each pass by about 2 cm. Wipe the squeegee blade on a clean cloth every pass.
5. Detail the edges: Use a clean, dry microfiber to dab the edges and corners where tiny beads sit. Don’t rub the middle of the pane-let the squeegee do that heavy lifting.
6. Check from different angles: Step to the side and look for faint arcs or lines. If you see them, your rubber may be nicked or your water is too soapy. Fix the root cause, not just the mark.

Two-cloth hack: Keep one microfiber damp for washing and one bone-dry for final buffing. If a streak shows, it often disappears with a single wipe of the dry cloth-no extra spray needed.

Microfiber matters: A dense, short-pile cloth is ideal for glass. Wash in warm water, no fabric softener, low heat dry, and don’t wash them with linty cotton towels. If your glass starts streaking out of the blue, swap to a fresh, truly clean microfiber-nine times out of ten that’s the fix.

Squeegee tips from the trade:

• Keep the blade angle consistent-about 30-45° to the glass. Square to the pane causes chatter; too shallow smears.
• Don’t press harder to fix a streak. Wipe the blade, then go again. Pressure warps the rubber and makes it worse.
• If you’re left-handed, start the pull from the right side; right-handers often prefer starting left. It reduces wrist twist and stops the blade from catching.
• Replace the rubber when it feels ‘grabby’ or leaves hairline trails. Fresh rubber is like new tyres-you feel it immediately.

Safety when working higher: Use a stable platform or a proper step ladder with a handhold. Don’t stretch. If you can’t reach safely, use an extension pole with a squeegee/washer head, or hire a pro for upstairs exteriors. I love a DIY job, but a wobbly ladder on paving is not the hill to die on.

Edge cases: hard water, greasy glass, exterior grime, skylights and films

Hard-water spots (milky rings, little dots that won’t shift): These are mineral deposits-calcium and magnesium. Soap won’t dissolve them. Pre-treat with white vinegar (acetic acid) or a citric-acid solution. Soak a cloth, press on the spots for 5-10 minutes, then gently scrub with a non-scratch pad while it’s still wet. Rinse and squeegee. If they’re old and stubborn, repeat. For severe etching (frosty patches that feel rough), you may need a specialist polish-don’t brute-force with abrasives.

Kitchen glass and greasy fingerprints: Grease needs a solvent. Alcohol-based sprays or a 50/50 isopropyl mix cut through it cleanly and evaporate fast. A single drop of dish soap in the mix helps with surfactant action, but too much leaves film. Wipe, then buff dry with your clean microfiber.

Exterior grime (pollen, road film, bird mess): Start with a hose rinse to float off grit. Then use your soapy bucket and washer. For stuck-on bits, a plastic scraper or a sharp razor blade used flat on wet glass can lift paint and bug residue-work slowly, keep the area wet, and never dry-scrape. Avoid blades on tempered glass with a factory label warning about scraping.

Skylights and roof windows: These heat fast in sun and encourage instant streaks. Pick a cool morning, use deionised water in your mix, and a pole with a microfiber pad or squeegee. If access is awkward indoors, a magnetic window cleaner can help, but go slow and keep it wet to avoid drag marks.

Tinted/filmed glass: Avoid ammonia and harsh solvents that can cloud or loosen films. Mild soap and water, soft microfiber only. If the film manufacturer left care instructions, follow those-they vary.

Leaded and stained glass: Go gentle. Soft brush and mild soap. Don’t force water into the cames (the lead joins). Dry the glass; leave the metal alone. If white oxidation shows on lead, that’s normal ageing-don’t scrub it aggressively.

Condensation and inside haze: In older homes or on cold mornings, you might see a fine film that smears easily. That’s often a mix of indoor pollutants and moisture. An alcohol-based cleaner helps here. Improve airflow while you clean and dry the edges thoroughly so moisture doesn’t wick back.

Pet nose prints (hi from Charlie): A quick spray of 50/50 isopropyl and water, one wipe on, one wipe off with a dry microfiber. No smearing, no pawing at the glass for long. If prints reappear daily, keep a small spray bottle and a dedicated cloth in the drawer by the door. Makes life easier.

Quick cheats, checklist, and mini‑FAQ

Cheat sheet for different messes:

• General weekly clean: Warm water + tiny soap, squeegee, dry microfiber detail.
• Fast mirror refresh: Alcohol spray, wipe with clean microfiber, light buff.
• Hard-water dots: Vinegar soak 5-10 minutes, then regular clean.
• Greasy kitchen glass: Alcohol-based cleaner + microfiber.
• Outside after a dusty week: Hose rinse, soapy wash, squeegee.

Pre-clean checklist:

• Two clean microfibers ready (one damp, one dry).
• Fresh solution mixed (don’t reuse yesterday’s bucket-dust settles in it).
• Squeegee blade clean and nick-free.
• Frames and tracks quickly dusted or vacuumed.
• Shaded window, cool glass, no direct sun.

Rules of thumb that save time:

• If you see streaks, change your cloth before changing your chemical.
• More detergent equals more residue. Use the smallest amount that breaks surface tension.
• Hard water? Mix with deionised water and dry edges well-stops spots.
• Work top to bottom, left to right. Habit beats guesswork.

Mini‑FAQ

• Does newspaper really work? It can, but modern inks and recycled paper vary. It can leave ink and lint. Microfiber is more consistent and scratches less.
• Vinegar or ammonia? Vinegar is great for mineral deposits and safe on most frames; ammonia cuts grime but can damage films/tints and some paints. When in doubt, go mild.
• Can I just use water? Yes-especially deionised water on lightly soiled glass and with a microfiber. If there’s grease, add a drop of soap or use alcohol.
• Why do I get haze after cleaning? Often residue from old cleaners or too much detergent. Do a reset: wash with warm water + a tiny soap drop, squeegee, then a final pass with a clean, damp cloth of plain water, and dry edges.
• Is isopropyl safe? Used properly and in a ventilated area, yes. Keep away from heat/flames, store capped, and avoid mixing with bleach (never mix anything with bleach except water).
• How often should I clean windows? Indoors every 4-8 weeks, exteriors 2-4 times a year depending on pollen, traffic, and weather. Bristol’s spring pollen and autumn rains usually mean an extra outdoor clean for me.
• Will rain undo my work? Light rain on a clean window is usually fine. Rain spots show most when the glass is already dirty or the water is hard.
• What about wooden frames? Keep water to a minimum near bare wood. Wring your cloth out well and dry the sill after.
• Can I use a steam cleaner? It works on some grime but can force moisture into frames and seals. I’d skip it for double-glazed units.
• Best cloth colour? Lighter cloths show dirt sooner, which nudges you to swap before you smear.

Troubleshooting quick fixes:

• Persistent streaks: Switch to distilled water; swap to a fresh microfiber; reduce soap; clean in shade.
• Blade marks or lines: Your squeegee rubber has a nick or is worn. Flip the rubber to the other edge or replace it.
• Greasy film that reappears: Degrease once with an alcohol mix, then revert to mild soap. Residues from silicone sprays or candles can cling to glass.
• Cloudy between panes: That’s a failed seal on double glazing. No surface cleaner will fix it-speak to a window specialist.
• Water spots keep coming back: Dry edges religiously and consider a quick final wipe with deionised water.

If you want the simplest path that just works: grab two clean microfibers, a squeegee, a bucket of warm water with the tiniest drop of washing-up liquid, and clean in the shade. For fast indoor touch-ups, keep an alcohol spray and a fresh cloth in the cupboard. That combo covers 99% of glass in a normal home-nose prints included.

One last practical note from experience: if you wash your microfibers with towels, you’ll spend your next window session chasing lint and blaming your cleaner. Keep a separate wash bag for glass cloths. It’s the least glamorous tip here, but it’s the one that keeps your windows looking like, well, nothing at all.