When you’re preparing to leave a rented property, every little scratch on the wooden floor or furniture can feel like a £50 deduction waiting to happen. Landlords notice them. Inventory reports list them. And suddenly, your deposit is on the line. You’ve scrubbed, vacuumed, and wiped down every surface-but those shallow scratches on the oak floor? Still there. That’s when someone suggests the old kitchen cabinet trick: vinegar and olive oil. But does it actually work? Or is it just a myth passed down like a family recipe?
What vinegar and olive oil actually do to wood
White vinegar is a mild acid. Olive oil is a fat. Together, they don’t repair scratches-they mask them. Think of it like tinting a faded photo. The vinegar cleans off dirt and grime that’s settled into the scratch, while the oil seeps into the wood grain, darkening the area slightly. That makes the scratch less visible by reducing the contrast between the scratch and the surrounding wood.
This isn’t magic. It’s chemistry. Wood absorbs oil, and when the oil fills the microscopic gaps in a shallow scratch, it reflects light the same way the surrounding surface does. Vinegar helps by removing wax buildup, polish residue, and dust that might be blocking the oil from penetrating. It’s a cleaning + conditioning combo, not a filler.
Real repairs-like wood filler, touch-up markers, or sanding and refinishing-actually rebuild the surface. Vinegar and oil just make the scratch look less obvious. That’s fine if you’re trying to pass an inventory check. Not fine if you’re restoring a vintage table.
When this method works (and when it doesn’t)
Here’s the truth: vinegar and olive oil only help with superficial scratches. That means:
- Scratches that don’t go through the finish (no white or light wood showing)
- Scratches that are less than 0.5mm deep
- Wood with a natural oil or wax finish (not polyurethane or lacquer)
If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, it’s too deep. If you see bare wood inside the scratch, it’s too deep. If the floor was sealed with a glossy polyurethane coat (common in modern rentals), the oil won’t soak in well. It’ll sit on top, leaving a greasy film.
Also, avoid this on light woods like maple or birch. The oil darkens the wood, and on pale surfaces, it can make the scratch look darker than before. On darker woods like walnut or mahogany? It usually blends in better.
How to do it properly (step by step)
If you’ve got a shallow scratch on a mid-tone wood floor or cabinet, here’s how to apply vinegar and oil without making things worse:
- Use a clean, lint-free cloth. Microfiber works best.
- Combine one part white vinegar with two parts olive oil in a small bowl. Don’t use extra virgin-it’s too thick and leaves residue.
- Dip the cloth into the mixture, then wring it out so it’s damp, not dripping.
- Gently rub the scratch in the direction of the wood grain. Apply light pressure. Don’t scrub.
- Let it sit for 5-10 minutes. The oil needs time to soak in.
- Wipe off any excess oil with a dry cloth. If it still feels greasy, wipe again with a cloth dampened with plain water, then dry immediately.
Wait 24 hours before walking on the area. Oil takes time to fully absorb. If you rush it, you’ll leave streaks or oily footprints.
Why this matters for end of tenancy cleaning
Landlords don’t expect perfection. They expect you to leave the property in the same condition as when you moved in, minus normal wear. A few minor scratches? Usually acceptable. But if you’ve got a dozen visible ones on the floor, they’ll argue it’s damage-not wear.
Using vinegar and oil is a low-cost, non-toxic, landlord-friendly fix. No sanding. No chemicals. No tools. You don’t need to hire a professional. And since it’s a cleaning method, not a repair, it won’t trigger a “structural alteration” clause in your tenancy agreement.
Compare that to buying wood filler or touch-up pens. Those often come in one shade. Your floor? Probably a blend of 3-5 tones. The pen looks like a dark spot. Vinegar and oil? It blends. It’s subtle. It’s invisible unless you’re looking for it.
What to use instead if this doesn’t work
Not every scratch responds. Here’s what to try next:
- Walnut or pecan nut: Rub the meat of a raw walnut over the scratch. The natural oils and pigments darken the wood. Works great on medium-dark woods.
- Tea bag: Steep a black tea bag in hot water, let it cool, then dab the liquid onto the scratch with a cotton swab. Let dry. Repeat. The tannins darken the wood. Safe for all finishes.
- Commercial wood scratch remover: Look for brands like Howard Feed-N-Wax or Rejuvenate. These are designed for rental properties-they’re easy to apply, dry clear, and don’t leave residue.
None of these are permanent fixes. But for end-of-tenancy purposes? You don’t need permanent. You need invisible.
Common mistakes to avoid
People try this fix and end up making things worse. Here’s why:
- Using too much oil. It leaves a sticky film that attracts dirt. You’ll end up with a greasy floor that looks worse than the scratch.
- Using vinegar straight. Undiluted vinegar can strip the finish over time. Always mix it with oil.
- Applying to lacquered or glossy floors. The oil won’t absorb. It’ll sit on top and create a cloudy, uneven look.
- Skipping the drying time. If you walk on it too soon, you’ll track oil into other rooms. Wait 24 hours.
- Expecting miracles. This won’t fix gouges, chips, or deep scratches. Don’t waste your time.
Final verdict: Is it worth trying?
Yes-if your scratches are shallow, your wood isn’t glossy, and you’re trying to avoid a deposit deduction. It’s free, safe, and effective for its purpose. It’s not a restoration technique. It’s a cleaning trick with a side effect.
For end-of-tenancy cleaning, it’s one of the best low-effort, high-impact moves you can make. It costs less than a pint of milk. Takes 15 minutes. And if done right, your landlord won’t even notice the scratches were there.
Just remember: clean the area first. Apply the mix sparingly. Wipe off the excess. Wait. Then inspect under natural light. If it still looks bad, move on to the walnut or tea bag method. Don’t keep reapplying. Less is more.
At the end of the day, your goal isn’t to restore the wood. It’s to pass the inventory check. Vinegar and olive oil? It’s not a fix. It’s a workaround. And sometimes, that’s all you need.
Can vinegar and olive oil damage wood floors?
Used correctly-diluted and wiped off thoroughly-it won’t damage wood. But undiluted vinegar can strip finishes over time, and excess oil can leave a sticky residue that attracts dirt. Always mix one part vinegar to two parts oil, apply sparingly, and wipe off all excess after 10 minutes.
Does this work on engineered wood?
Yes, if the top layer is real wood and the scratch hasn’t gone through it. Engineered wood often has a thin veneer. If you can see the plywood layer underneath, this method won’t help. Stick to professional repair or touch-up pens.
Will this work on laminate flooring?
No. Laminate isn’t real wood. It’s a printed layer over composite board. Vinegar and oil won’t penetrate it. At best, it’ll leave a greasy film. Clean laminate with a damp microfiber cloth and a dedicated laminate cleaner.
How long does the effect last?
The darkening from oil fades over weeks as the oil evaporates and the wood dries out. In high-traffic areas, it may last only a few days. That’s fine for end-of-tenancy purposes-you only need it to look good for the final inspection.
Can I use this on furniture too?
Absolutely. It works well on wooden chairs, tables, and cabinets, especially if they have a natural oil finish. Avoid it on painted or lacquered furniture. Always test on a hidden spot first.